All the recipes

No. 07FrenchPorkPieSpain 2026Marché Forville, Cannes

Tourte Champenoise

The custard sets around the meat — that is what makes a true tourte champenoise sliceable cold.

John Drummond

Pies and tourtes in the pastry counter of a market hall
At the Marché Forville, Cannes
Prep50min
Cook1hr 25min
All up

2hr 15min+ 24 hours

Serves6
LevelMedium

Mise en place

What you need

Tick each one off as it goes in.

For the marinade, 24 hours ahead

For the wine reduction

For the pastry

For the royale

Makes 6 serves

The pie at the top of the charcuterie board at the Marché Forville in Cannes, on a day ashore from the Scarlet Lady. A Champagne-region pie a long way south of Champagne, which is what a good market hall does. Pork marinated overnight in champagne with eschalot, garlic, nutmeg and fresh herbs, packed into all-butter puff pastry, then finished with a savoury egg-and-milk royale poured in through the chimney while it bakes.

The custard poured mid-bake is what separates this from an ordinary meat pie — do not skip it, and do not pour it cold or it streaks instead of setting. Internal target is 75°C in the centre of the pork — the figure for marinated meat.

Reworked in October 2026: belly with the shoulder, a fresh-wine reduction that puts the champagne back on the meat and in the royale, a two-yolk royale poured when the pork is ready, and a hot tray under the tin. It hasn’t been cooked in this form yet. Once it has chilled, a little warm stock set with a sheet of gelatine, poured through the chimney, fills the gap the meat leaves under the lid.

Same-counter cousins, same method: white wine and Comté through the meat for a Porc-Comté, or red wine with diced veal for Le Lorrain. The marinade ratios stay identical.

You will want a 22–23cm metal pie tin about 4cm deep, a heavy baking tray to stand it on, a probe thermometer, and a small funnel or a chimney rolled from foil. A metal piping nozzle works just as well.

Sourcing it in Adelaide. Pork: Feast! Fine Foods at the Central Market, or Barossa Fine Foods — shoulder and a piece of skinless belly, in 1cm batons cut across the grain. Pastry: Carême all-butter puff, made at Tanunda, at Frewville, Pasadena and Drakes. Do not substitute margarine sheets. Bubbles: any dry South Australian méthode traditionnelle, and the Adelaide Hills brut styles are ideal. Nutmeg whole, grated fresh.

AI reviewed by Grok, Codex & Claude

The method

Ten moves.

  1. Pork, Cut

    Cut the shoulder and belly across the grain into batons about 1 × 1 × 3–4cm, or ask the butcher to.

  2. Pork, Marinate

    The day before. Dissolve the salt in the 150ml sparkling wine. Add the pork, eschalots, garlic, parsley, thyme, bay, nutmeg and pepper. Cover and refrigerate for 24 hours — twelve at an absolute minimum — turning it once.

  3. Wine, Reduce

    Simmer the 250ml fresh sparkling wine with the sliced eschalot down to 3 tablespoons. Strain and cool.

  4. Pork, Drain

    Into a colander for 15 minutes. Bay and thyme stems out. Pat the meat until no free liquid remains, without squeezing it dry. Fold 1 tablespoon of the wine reduction through it; the rest goes in the royale.

  5. Tin, Line

    Roll one sheet out and line the metal tin, leaving a 1cm overhang. Brush the inside with a thin film of egg white. Pack the pork in snugly, batons in mixed directions, sitting slightly proud of the rim.

  6. Lid, Chimney

    Brush the rim with water, lay the second sheet over, seal and crimp. Cut a 1.5cm hole dead centre and insert a foil chimney or a metal piping nozzle. Decorate, and rest it in the fridge for 45 minutes. Meanwhile put a heavy metal tray on the low shelf and heat the oven to 200°C, or 180°C fan. Glaze with the yolk and milk just before it goes in.

  7. Bake

    Set the tin on the hot tray. 30 minutes, then drop to 170°C, or 150°C fan, and keep it baking while you make the royale. If the lid is already dark, lay foil loosely over it.

  8. The Royale

    Whisk the egg, yolks, milk, cream, salt, nutmeg and the rest of the wine reduction. Strain, and warm gently to 35–40°C — warm to the touch, no more. Probe a central piece of pork through the chimney, tip in meat, not a gap. When it reads 60–65°C, pour the royale slowly in three goes, and stop when it stops taking it.

  9. Finish

    Back in the oven until the royale at the chimney is set and the centre of the pork reads 75°C.

  10. Rest

    35 minutes before slicing it warm. For cold — where it is at its best — get it into the fridge within the hour, uncovered, cover it once it is cold, and keep it overnight. Slice it straight from the fridge and give the wedges 15 minutes on the plate. Serve with cornichons and good mustard.

Keep wandering

From the same volume.

Tourte Champenoiseserves 6 · 2 hr 15 min + 24 hours