Tourte Champenoise
Spain 2026 · On land · Marché Forville, CannesThe custard sets around the meat — that is what makes a true tourte champenoise sliceable cold.
Start cookingIn JD’s words
The pie at the top of the charcuterie board at the Marché Forville in Cannes, on a day ashore from the Scarlet Lady. A Champagne-region pie a long way south of Champagne, which is what a good market hall does. Pork marinated overnight in champagne with eschalot, garlic, nutmeg and fresh herbs, packed into all-butter puff pastry, then finished with a savoury egg-and-milk royale poured in through the chimney while it bakes.
The custard poured mid-bake is what separates this from an ordinary meat pie — do not skip it, and do not pour it cold or it streaks instead of setting. Internal target is 72°C in the centre.
Same-counter cousins, same method: white wine and Comté through the meat for a Porc-Comté, or red wine with diced veal for Le Lorrain. The marinade ratios stay identical.
You will want a 22–23cm pie tin about 4cm deep, and a small funnel or a chimney rolled from foil. A metal piping nozzle works just as well.
Sourcing it in Adelaide. Pork: Feast! Fine Foods at the Central Market, or Barossa Fine Foods — ask for it cut in 1cm strips. Pastry: Carême all-butter puff, made at Tanunda, at Frewville, Pasadena and Drakes. Do not substitute margarine sheets. Bubbles: any dry South Australian méthode traditionnelle, and the Adelaide Hills brut styles are ideal. Nutmeg whole, grated fresh.
The method
Cook it unhurried.
- 01
Marinate, the Day Before
Toss the pork with the eschalots, garlic, sparkling wine, parsley, thyme, bay, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate for 24 hours — twelve at an absolute minimum — turning it once.
- 02
Drain
Into a colander over the sink for 15 minutes. Discard the bay and the thyme stems and pat the meat reasonably dry. A wet filling is the enemy of crisp pastry.
- 03
Line the Tin
Roll one sheet out and line the tin, leaving a 1cm overhang. Pack the pork in snugly, sitting slightly proud of the rim.
- 04
Lid and Chimney
Brush the rim with water, lay the second sheet over, seal and crimp. Cut a 1.5cm hole dead centre and insert a foil chimney or a metal piping nozzle. Decorate, glaze with the yolk and milk, and rest it in the fridge for 30 minutes.
- 05
Bake
200°C, or 180°C fan, on a low shelf for 30 minutes. Then drop to 170°C, or 150°C fan, for a further 25.
- 06
The Royale
Whisk the egg, yolk, milk, cream, salt and nutmeg together and warm gently to blood temperature. About 15 minutes before the end, pour it slowly through the chimney in two or three stages. Return it to the oven until just set, about 15 minutes more.
- 07
Rest
At least 20 minutes before slicing it warm. Or chill it overnight and serve it cold in wedges with cornichons and good mustard.