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No. 13FrenchVegetarian

Ratatouille

i need it to be a work of art in my mouth!

John Drummond

A rustic earthenware dish of ratatouille on a sunny weathered timber table: chunks of golden fried eggplant, seared zucchini and charred red and yellow capsicum in a thick red tomato sauce, spooned with green basil oil and a few basil leaves, beside garlic-rubbed grilled sourdough and a small bowl of olive oil
Prep30min
Cook2hr
All up

2hr 30min+ overnight

Serves6
LevelMedium

Mise en place

What you need

Tick each one off as it goes in.

The vegetables

The tomato

The oil and seasoning

Optional, and then it isn't vegetarian

To serve

Makes 6 serves

We can go out on a limb with this one. I don't need it to be some spiralised fantastic-looking work of art on the plate. I need it to be a work of art in my mouth.

It went through the full AI competition: Claude, Grok, Codex and Gemini, four rounds, blind. Nobody argued for the spiral. Thin slices don't brown, so they taste steamed. All four picked the same version in the final round. Their predictions land between about 8.2 and 8.9 out of 10. It hasn't been cooked in this exact form yet.

The usual home version stews everything together for 40 minutes and every vegetable ends up the same soft brown-green. So here each one gets its own heat. The eggplant is fried hard in batches until it's gold outside and creamy inside. The zucchini is seared so it still has some bite. The capsicum is charred black and peeled, and only goes in for the last five minutes. The tomato is done two ways, part roasted and part fresh, and boiled down until it's thick before anything else meets it. Then it all sits in the fridge overnight, which does the mingling the long simmer was meant to do.

It's a summer dish. In Adelaide it's best from January to March, when the tomatoes, eggplant, zucchini and capsicum at the Central Market are all good at once. In winter, use two tins of good whole tomatoes and expect less.

It's vegan as written. Serve it with garlic-rubbed sourdough and it's a meal.

Some stuff about it that's actually true. We checked.

It is from Nice. But the "poor farmers' dish" story is mostly folklore. The word's older than the dish: in 1831 a French military journal used it for a watery stew of vegetables, "among which float here and there a few scrawny ribs of veal or bad mutton." Army slop, basically.

The name isn't simply "to stir". The French dictionary traces it to two old slangy versions of that word, ratouiller and tatouiller, mashed together.

The fanned spiral in the Pixar film isn't really ratatouille. It's a dish called confit byaldi, first made by the French chef Michel Guérard in 1976 and later reworked by Thomas Keller, who advised on the film. Its name is a joke on a Turkish stuffed-eggplant dish, imam bayıldı.

AI reviewed by Grok, Codex & Claude

The method

Twelve moves.

  1. Eggplant, Salt

    Toss the eggplant with 6 g salt. Leave 30 minutes. Blot it hard. Don't rinse it.

  2. Tomatoes, Roast

    Oven to 210°C fan. Halve the Romas, cut side up on a metal tray. 20 ml oil, 2 g salt, a thyme sprig, pepper. 30–35 minutes, until they've collapsed and the edges are brown, not black. Pull off the loose skins. Keep every drop of juice.

  3. Tomatoes, Peel

    Blanch the other 600 g just long enough to loosen the skins. Peel. Halve them across and scoop the seeds into a sieve over a bowl. Press the jelly through and bin the seeds. That jelly is where a lot of the flavour is. Chop the flesh.

  4. Capsicum, Char

    Whole capsicums straight on the gas BBQ or the wok-burner grate, turning, until they're black all over, 10–12 minutes. Into a covered bowl, 10 minutes. Peel with your hands, don't rinse. Seeds and stalks out. Tear into 3 cm pieces.

  5. Onions, Soften

    35 ml oil in a wide enamelled casserole, medium-low. Onions and 3 g salt, 18–20 minutes, until completely soft and pale gold. Garlic, 4 minutes, no colour.

  6. Base, Reduce

    Chopped fresh tomato, the jelly, 4 thyme sprigs, the bay, 3 g salt, pepper. Simmer uncovered 20–25 minutes, until a spoon dragged across the bottom leaves a clean trail. Roasted tomatoes and their juice in. Another 5–8 minutes, back to the clean trail. Thyme stalks and bay out. Taste. It should be sweet, thick and properly seasoned.

  7. Eggplant, Fry

    Wok on the wok burner, medium-high. Two or three batches, never crowded, up to 70 ml oil in all. Leave each face against the metal long enough to go deep gold. Stop when it's creamy at the edges with a little resistance in the middle. Drain it. Don't pour that oil into the pot.

  8. Zucchini, Sear

    4 g salt on the zucchini right before it goes in. High heat, two batches, 25 ml oil in all, 4–5 minutes a batch. Dark gold faces, firm in the middle. Drain.

  9. Pot, Fold

    Eggplant and zucchini into the hot base. Fold, don't stir. Baking paper on the surface, the faintest simmer, 12–15 minutes, folding once. Capsicum in for the last 5. It should cling: no watery moat, no slick of oil.

  10. Ratatouille, Rest

    Into shallow containers, cool it quickly, fridge overnight.

  11. Basil, Bruise

    Next day. Bruise 15 g of the basil in a mortar with the 25 ml peppery oil. Loose and leafy, not a purée.

  12. Ratatouille, Serve

    Warm just what you're serving, gently, in a wide pan with a lid. Warm, not bubbling. Heat off. Fold in the vinegar, the last of the basil, torn, and half the basil oil. Taste for salt. The rest of the basil oil over the top. Grilled garlic sourdough on the side.

If it goes wrong

How to save it

The eggplant's greasy and soft
The pan was crowded or not hot enough. Can't be undone. Next time smaller batches and a hotter wok.
There's a watery moat around it
The tomato wasn't reduced far enough. Lift the vegetables out, boil the sauce back to the clean trail, fold them back.
It's turned to mush
It simmered too long. Can't be undone. Serve it on toast anyway.
It tastes flat
Salt first, then a little more vinegar, a few drops at a time.
There's a slick of oil on top
Spoon it off. Next time, don't add the frying oil back.
The capsicum tastes burnt
Thick black bits were left on. Pick them off; next time peel more carefully.

Keep wandering

From the same volume.

Ratatouilleserves 6 · 2 hr 30 min + overnight